CARCAVELOS – fortified and fabulous
CARCAVELOS – an internationally recognized, Portuguese fortified wine with a history of more than 500 years, and with its high quality, rightfully belongs to the quartet of dessert wines of the country. It is a very special wine because, on the one hand, it is produced in small quantities and, on the other hand, only 25 hectares of vineyards are available to the producers.
Although it is a Portuguese wine, it was first made by an Irishman in the 14th century. Sir Paul George, a merchant living in the area, thought he could make some changes to the characteristics of the local wine, as his British customers preferred more liqueur-like, stronger drinks. Since then, the wine has been fortified largely with wine spirit from the Lourinhã region.
However, the peak of Carcavelos wine production did not reach until the 18th century, when the Marquês de Pombal, the first count of Oeiras, also began producing the then-popular drink in the cellars of his local palace. It should be remembered that it was the Marquis who had ordered the delimitation of the Douro wine region in 1756. Therefore, he now tried to put all his experience gained there to good use on his estate by producing this fortified wine.
By the end of the century, Carcavelos had become a prestigious drink for the European elite.
I am happy to share that my new article has already been published in the April issue of the Algarve Plus Magazine in Portugal.
The magazine is readable online or downloaded for free here.
Cheers to the changing landscape of wine and the women who are shaping it for the better!
Or read my whole article here:
Carcavelos, the forgotten fortified wine
Nestled along Portugal’s picturesque coast, Carcavelos is perhaps most famous for its sun-drenched beaches and vibrant culture. However, few know that this charming locale is also the birthplace of one of the nation’s most historical and luxurious fortified wines: Carcavelos wine.
This rich and uniquely Portuguese nectar is steeped in history, much of which is intertwined with the remarkable figure of the Marquês de Pombal, whose influence helped shape not just this wine but the entire landscape of Portuguese viticulture.
Photo source: Villa Oeiras
History of Carcavelos wine
Carcavelos wine’s history dates back to the 15th century when Portugal established itself as a global maritime power through exploration and trade. At that time it was also known as Oeiras wine. The region’s unique terroir, blessed with a microclimate that enjoys the Atlantic’s maritime influence, made it ideal for the production of white fortified wine. The area is characterized by its sandy soil and proximity to the Tagus River—a combination that creates an optimal environment for cultivating grapes that thrive in lower acidity, such as the Arinto and Galego Dourado.
During the following centuries, wine production became one of the most important economic activities in this region, but it was in the 18th century, with the Marquis of Pombal, that wine production became more refined and expanded.
Pombal, a progressive statesman and visionary, focused on enhancing the quality and marketability of Portugal’s wines. His work in the Douro Valley led to the demarcation of the Port region, but it also had ripple effects throughout all of Portugal, including Carcavelos.
On his former summer farm, Carcavelos’ fortified wine gained momentum, prestige and international recognition. Its international prestige and expansion at an elite level is proven from very early on, with its presence as a prestigious item at one of the first Christie’s House wine auctions in September 1769, and was even chosen by King José as a gift to the Emperor of China in 1782.
Despite its regal past and the critical role it played in Pombal’s advancements in wine quality, Carcavelos wine gradually fell out of favor in the 19th century. Several factors contributed to this decline: the advent of new wine-producing regions, changing consumer tastes, and even the impact of phylloxera which devastated vineyards across Europe.
However, in 1908, with the creation of the demarcated region of Carcavelos, the site became protected. Nowadays, this is the smallest demarcated region in Portugal and one of the smallest in the world.
In recent years, there has been a renaissance of interest in this wine. Local producers and enthusiasts are working diligently to revive the old vineyards and production techniques, breathing new life into this historic wine. With increasing numbers of tourists eager to sample Portugal’s rich wine heritage, wineries are re-establishing their presence in the market and storytelling around Carcavelos is re-establishing its allure. The hope is to bring this fortified wine back into the limelight, where it rightfully belongs.
Carcavelos wine is more than just a fortified drink. There is an undeniable charm in this sweet nectar that invites wine lovers to explore Portugal’s lush, viticultural landscape. As the wine world continues to evolve, Carcavelos is poised for an exciting future, it can reclaim its rightful spot in the international wine hierarchy.
The role of Marquês de Pombal
Born Sebastião José de Carvalho e Melo in 1699, the Marquês de Pombal rose to prominence in the mid-18th century, serving as the Prime Minister of Portugal under King José I. His leadership came at a time of great upheaval, particularly following the devastating Lisbon earthquake of 1755. Pombal took bold steps to modernize the country, focusing on commerce, education, and the arts, while also emphasizing the importance of the wine industry—a chief contributor to the national economy.
One of Pombal’s significant contributions was the establishment of regulatory measures aimed at improving wine quality. He introduced the first formal classification of quality wines, which laid the groundwork for what would become the modern Denominação de Origem Controlada (DOC) classification system. This system identified and endorsed regions that produced high-quality wines, elevating Portugal’s viniculture on the European stage.
Carcavelos was one of the wine regions that benefited from Pombal’s push for quality and regulation. He was particularly fond of fortified wines, which helped secure Carcavelos’ place as a beverage of choice among the European aristocracy.
Photo source: Villa Oeiras
Palace and wine cellar of the Marquês of Pombal
The Palace of Marquês of Pombal or Palace of the Count of Oeiras is a typical 18th-century manor house located in the Historic Center of Oeiras.
Built under the supervision of the Hungarian architect Carlos Mardel in the second half of the 18th century, the palace served as the official residence of Sebastião José de Carvalho e Melo, also known as the Count of Oeiras, from which the building derives its name.
The palace and gardens are characterized by having rare and wonderful architectural and artistic elements (stucco, tiles, statues, etc.). They were classified as a National Monument in 1953.
In turn, the Oeiras City Council has invested considerable funds in recent decades in the preservation and maintenance of the existing vineyard in the old Quinta, in the planting of new areas and the restoration of buildings.
After renovation work, the Marquês de Pombal Palace Wine Cellar was inaugurated in June 2013. The intervention aimed to return this space to its original function, taking advantage of its excellent natural characteristics for the aging of Carcavelos wine.
Currently, the Quinta do Marquês de Pombal includes the so-called Quinta de Baixo, where the palace and surrounding gardens are located, and Quinta de Cima, which corresponds to around 80 percent of the total area of this property. This is where old recreational structures are scattered. such as the Fishing House, waterfalls, the Silkworm House, and the Adega Casal da Manteiga, among others.
The wine cellar of the Palace of the Marquis of Pombal is a special place that played a major role in the development of the region: the place where one of the most traditional wines in Portugal is produced.
Characteristics of Carcavelos wine
Carcavelos wines are primarily known for their distinct characteristics, making them unique in the world of fortified wines. The blend typically incorporates traditional Portuguese grape varieties like Castelão, Preto Martinho, Galego Dourado, Ratinho and Arinto (Pedernã). What distinguishes Carcavelos from other fortified wines, such as Port or Madeira, is its particular production method.
During fermentation, Lourinhã’s famous brandy is added to the wine to preserve a portion of the natural sugars. This process results in a honey-colored sweet wine that is higher in alcohol content, typically between 17-20%.
The aging process is equally critical, as Carcavelos must be aged in Portuguese and French oak barrels for an average period of 7-15 years, then, for 6 months in bottle before it can be released.
This oxidative aging process helps to develop complex flavors, which add layers of rich aromas and tastes that evoke dried apricots, candied orange peel, nuts, and subtle hints of honey, and a backdrop of spices.
The specificity of this wine has to do precisely with the place. In addition to the grape varieties, the clay-limestone soil and the proximity to the sea and the orientation of the slopes allow for a daily and intimate relationship with the sea. Every night, the sea enters the land and bathes the vineyards, bringing humidity and salts that give this wine a unique character.
This wine demonstrates extremely high-quality standards and, together with the wines of Port, Madeira and Moscatel de Setúbal, is part of the exclusive group of Portuguese fortified wines, and is considered by numerous wine experts to be one of the best Portuguese aperitifs and an excellent digestive.
Food pairing and serving suggestions
Carcavelos wine’s sweetness and complexity make it a versatile companion at the dining table. Traditionally served as an aperitif, it pairs beautifully with a range of appetizers and tapas. Think of charcuterie boards adorned with cured meats, rich cheeses (like older, sharper cheeses), and marinated olives. Its rich, complex flavors also complement rich desserts, especially those containing fruits, nuts, and dark chocolate.
When serving Carcavelos, it is recommended to chill the wine slightly, much like one would serve a late-harvest wine, for example. It typically shines when served in a small glass, allowing drinkers to appreciate its rich aromas before sipping.
Photo source: Villa Oeiras
My recommendations for tasting:
• Villa Oeiras 15 Years by Villa Oeiras
This fortified wine is a blend of the Galego Dourado, Ratinho, and Arinto grapes. Velvety body, elegant acidity well matched with sweetness. The pronounced intensity with aromas of dried fruits, spices, tobacco and toffee. Semi-sweet palate, with a persistent finish. It is an excellent wine as an aperitif or with desserts of red fruits and cheese.
• Quinta dos Pesos – Carcavelos – 1995 by Quinta dos Pesos
A blend of red and white grapes. Wine with a restrained aroma from the vintage 1995. This blend boasts a beautiful topaz color and complex aromas of dried fruits, spices, and nuts. The palate is fresh, and elegant, with notes of wood. With a long, persistent finish and lively acidity, this Carcavelos wine is a true delight.
• Quinta da Bela Vista Carcavelos 80 years by Companhia Agricola do Sanguinhal
Produced from the white Galego Dourado grape, this wine has an amber color with golden hints. Intense notes of spices and nuts (almond and hazelnut), wrapped in a smooth and pleasant finish and a remarkable acidity. Velvety with a caramelized flavor and notes of dried figs, raisins and some persistent smoke. Full-bodied wine with a good balance between its structure and a remarkable final acidity. Excellent as an aperitif or at the end of a meal with a coffee in the good company of dark chocolate and a good cigar.
• Carcavelos Ultima Reserva by Quinta do Barão
Produced from the region’s traditional grape varieties, such as Espadeiro, Galego Dourado, Negra Mole and Trincadeira, this wine with an 18% alcohol content maintains an elegant structure and extraordinary depth. On the nose, it reveals a complex and enveloping bouquet, with notes of resinous wood, vanilla, and candied fruits. In the mouth, its semi-dry profile perfectly balances delicate sweetness with vibrant acidity, providing a long and memorable finish. Perfect to be enjoyed alone or paired with cured cheeses and rich desserts. A unique experience for true connoisseurs of fortified wines.
• Carcavelos by Quinta Da Ribeira De Caparide
Quinta da Ribeira is one of the most important historic farms in Cascais. This is a very interesting Carcavelos. On the nose, aromas of dried fruits, coffee, spices, candied orange peel. On the palate, the alcohol is taking center stage, minerality and liqueur are dominating the flavors. Superb rare wine, perfect with chocolate.
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